Hunter's Heart Brittanys

It is best to get your puppy used to grooming as soon as you bring him/her home. (Although he probably won't really need the grooming right away, your puppy will grow into an adult dog that doesn't put up a fight when grooming is required.) Grooming, like petting, can be used as an opportunity to bond with your puppy/dog. A dog with this type of conditioning will more readily accept all types of grooming, examination by your veterinarian, & examination by the judge if you ever enter dog shows or trials.

It is especially important to regularly handle all parts of the puppy's body. i.e. Don't just stop with patting the top of your puppy's head. Get him used to having his paws, muzzle & face touched. (Our dogs actually enjoy having the insides of their ears rubbed.) Put your fingers in his mouth & teach him to be gentle with human fingers, etc. This will get him used to human handling.

If you give your dog a quick "doggy massage", you'll also be more likely to notice any new lumps or bumps. If there are any skin changes, get your vet to check them as soon as possible. Problems like cancer are more likely to be curable when you find them in the early stages.

If you plan on hiking or traveling with your dog, it's better if you get used to the way the different parts of the body look - when they're normal. So if your puppy/dog ever cuts their foot pad when you don't have easy access to a vet, you will not be handling and looking at their paw for the first time. Not only will your puppy/dog will be more co-operative, but you will also be better prepared to handle an emergency.

CLEANING YOUR DOG'S EARS

It is a good idea to get your puppy used to having his ears cleaned when he's young. If you don't clean your dog's ears, wax may build up & cause an ear infection. Cleaning your dog's ears is also the easiest way you can recognize an early infection. (If your dog has an infection, there will be lots of stuff inside a red, irritated ear, and he may resist your attempts to clean it. The ear might smell bad. Your dog may scratch at his ears, shake his head, or rub his head against the ground.)

We clean our dogs' ears whenever we brush their coats. Commercial ear cleaning solutions are available e.g. your vet probably sells "Epi-otic". But you can also make your own solution at home by combining 1 part white vinegar to 5 parts water. Not only is this solution an effective cleaner, but if your dog gets an ear infection, it will actually sting less than the commercial products!

You may find it easiest to put your dog up on a table whenever you want to clean his ears. (This lets him know it's time for grooming; and also makes it harder to escape.) You or your helper should hold him firmly, to prevent him from struggling & hurting himself. Use a firm, no-nonsense voice. Insist that he co-operates. You're doing it for his benefit & he doesn't have a choice in the matter.

Hold your dog's head so that his nose points downwards and away from you so you can get a good look & the ear canal is in the best position for cleaning. (This position straightens out the canal's folds.) It is safe to clean all parts of the ear that you can see. The eardrum is further down where you can't see it. To clean the eardrum, you have to flush the ear with the cleaning solution.

Hold the dog's head firmly in position so he can't shake it. Squirt a considerable amount of ear cleaning solution right down into the ear canal. Continue to hold his head while you massage the outside of the ear flap (the floppy part) to slosh around the liquid inside & bring out the dirt & wax. After that, you can let your dog shake his head.

The last step is to to wipe out the excess solution & any debris it carried out. Take a makeup remover pad (or cotton ball or Q-tip) & wipe the parts of the ear you can see. (Don't put it in too far or you might not be able to get it out.) As long as the cotton ball comes out dirty, you should repeat the whole process. The first time you clean your dog's ears, you may have to repeat several times. The next time, his ears won't be so dirty and you won't need so many repetitions.

Follow the same procedure for the other ear.

Clean the ears once a week at first, to get your puppy used to the idea. Eventually, most dogs only need their ears cleaned once every 2 weeks.

BRUSHING YOUR BRITTANY'S COAT

A Brittany's coat is relatively short, with relatively little feathering (compared to other Spaniel breeds). This makes it easy to care for. Some books say you should brush your Brittany daily; others say weekly. Realistically, the frequency required depends on the length of your particular puppy/dog's coat and feathering, and whether he's been out to play in the mud, picked up burrs in the field, etc.

We brush our Brittanys at least once a week. (They need it more often if they get dirty, have mats or are in their Spring or Fall shedding period.) The routine we go through may sound complicated but it never takes more than 10 minutes. (It will take longer if you don't groom your dog frequently because the mats will accumulate.)

Once again, if you train your dog to accept grooming when he's young you'll have fewer problems.

When you brush your Brittany, you are "brushing his skin", as well as his coat. Regular brushing improves skin aeration by removing dead hair & scale. It also lubricates the skin ( by squeezing the oil glands) & makes the skin healthier (by stimulating blood flow).

Start by spraying the dog's coat with a dermal spray. Avoid spraying the eyes.

We like the "Whispering Mist" brand, available at Doghouse Pet Food Mart. N.B. It is especially helpful when you're grooming for dog shows. We consider the spray helpful, but not absolutely essential. You could skip to the next step.

Dermal sprays help detangle mats, prevent flyaway hair, moisturize the skin and give a nice shine & smell to the coat. Not only do you avoid dry, flaky, itchy skin, but hairs loosened by brushing stay together in a bunch instead of flying off into the air.
Dermal sprays can also be used to treat dandruff & skin scaling, and elbow calluses.
Next, run the edge of a "Sheddin' Blade" through your dog's coat. (The cheapest place to buy one is at stores that sell horse tack, but you can also find it at pet stores.) This specialty brush brings all loose hairs to the surface (where they can be picked up with your slicker brush.) This is an effective way of tackling the undercoat.

N.B. If your dog was recently bitten or got a scratch on your latest outing, you will probably want to skip going over those areas. This brush isn't gentle enough for irritated areas.
Next, use small and/or large slicker brush to pick up all the loose hairs. This is a brush a brush with metal bristles. You can use it to gently brush out any mats.

It's important to take out mats early, before they grow larger. Large mats are likely to irritate your dog. And he may pull out the mat & the hairs attached to it when he cleans himself.

(Combs are also available specifically for taking out mats. If you can afford one, they do work well.)

If you aren't showing your Brittany, you can cut out very large, troublesome mats with scissors
The last step is to smooth down the entire coat with a soft bristle brush. This is the only brush we use for the most sensitive areas e.g. face & chin.
Although our dogs are used to being groomed regularly & usually enjoy it, we finish off with a reward for good behavior.

BRUSHING YOUR DOG'S TEETH

Tooth & gum disease is a very common problem in dogs. Although we've seen different numbers, most say that over 90% of dogs will suffer from tooth & gum disease in their lifetime. The problem is usually ignored until it's quite advanced. Tooth & gum disease not only causes bad breath; but it also causes pain & damage to the mouth. You can prevent these problems by following good dental care at home, as part of grooming.

Like with humans, there's simply no substitute for daily tooth brushing. Start by purchasing a small, soft dog toothbrush & toothpaste from a pet store. (We prefer C.E.T. brand chicken flavored toothpaste & medium dental chews. These are available from your vet. Purchasing the economy size bag of dental chews & the large toothpaste pump is cheaper than if you buy small quantities. And the economy size bag has a zipper to close it, & keep the 2 separate bags inside of it fresh.) Modern toothpaste for dogs contains enzymes to break down the plaque. So you don't have to scrub off the plaque like you might scrub a sink with cleanser. All you have to do is to apply the toothpaste onto the surface of the teeth for it to do its job.

As mentioned above, there are dental treats with enzyme available from vets. But there's also dental bones & toys available from pet stores, e.g. Nylabones or rawhide dental treats. They don't have the enzyme, but their shape is designed to clean the teeth & gums while the dog chews them. You can also buy special dog food designed to reduce plaque & its unpleasant consequences.

Since you're bringing your dog to the vet at least every year for vaccinations, you have an opportunity to have him or her check the dog's teeth. The vet can let you know if your dog has developed gingivitis or periodontal disease, and if a dental procedure under anesthetic is required. If you have any doubts about how to care for your dog's teeth at home, ask your veterinarian what to do.

GIVING YOUR DOG A BATH

Healthy dogs who don't have any skin problems don't need baths for them to remain healthy. But you certainly can bathe your dog when he's dirty or smelly. Just be sure to use a shampoo that doesn't irritate his skin.

Picking a Good Shampoo

When you give a puppy a bath, the additives in commercial pet shampoos can be very irritating. So for puppies, use a human baby shampoo instead.

When you are picking a shampoo for your adult dog, there are a few criteria to consider:

Choose a shampoo with a cleansing agent in it. This will increase the "wetting" of the skin.
The shampoo you choose should also have a moisturizing agent in it. Moisturizers decrease skin dryness, itchiness & soreness. (This is especially important if you shampoo your dog frequently, which tends to dry out the skin.)
Before you use a new shampoo on your dog for the first time, make sure he isn't allergic to it. Even "non - irritating" & "hypoallergenic" products can cause an allergic reaction! Test for an allergy by putting a small amount on a small patch of your dog's skin.

How to Give a Bath

If your dog's coat has any tangles/mats, make sure you brush them out before you give him a bath. If you don't, the bath will worsen the mats & make it even harder for you to get them out!

Avoid getting shampoo in the eyes. If you get shampoo in your dog's eyes, it can destroy the surface layer of the cornea. The eye will heal quickly, but it would be very sore for a few days. To prevent this damage, apply a little Vaseline between your dog's eyelids before you bathe him. The Vaseline will melt and form a temporary protective layer over the eye. Wash the eyes with lots of water immediately if you do accidentally get shampoo into them.

It doesn't usually matter if shampoo or water runs into the dog's ears. At the end of the bath, just rinse out the ears with clean water & let him shake out any liquid that's left inside. N.B. The exception to this rule is dogs who have chronic ear infections. If your dog suffers from the problem, be careful not to get any water in his ears. (This includes when you give him a bath & when he goes for a swim.) Prevent water from getting in by putting a few drops of mineral oil into the ears & then plug them up with cotton balls, before your dog has a chance to get wet.

Depending on the size of your puppy/dog, you can give him a bath in the sink, the bath tub, or outdoors with a hose when the weather's hot. Be sure to test that the water is comfortably warm on your inner wrist, before you use it on your dog. Thoroughly wet your dog, all over his body including his face. Then put a little shampoo on his coat. Rub the shampoo into his hair & create a lather. Rinse until the water running off your dog is free of shampoo suds. Wash your dog a second time, and rinse thoroughly, again.

Use cream rinse next, to moisturize & detangle the dog's coat. Squeeze as much water as possible from the coat. Massage a generous amount of conditioner into the coat. Rinse with clean, warm water.

Let your dog shake off as much moisture as he can, and then towel dry him. Or you may prefer to use a blow dryer if you're dealing with a small puppy or cold weather.

Using Medicated Shampoos

"Medicated" shampoos(i.e. shampoos with sulphur & salicylic acid or coal tar derivatives) are used for dogs who have lots of skin scale or dandruff. These shampoos loosen the scale & dandruff, but do tend to dry the skin. So be sure that the medicated shampoo you're using also contains a moisturizer.

Medicated shampoos should be rubbed into the skin & left for 10 minutes before rinsing. N.B. The first time you use a medicated shampoo, expect your dog to look worse. That's because it has loosened the scale on the skin & you can see it in the dog's coat. He will look better if you shampoo him again a few days later. Use it every 5 days for the first 2 or 3 times you use it. Then you can use it every 1-4 weeks, as needed to control the dandruff problem.

CLIPPING YOUR BRITTANY'S NAILS

Which Dogs Need to Have Their Nails Clipped?

Brittanys who are active outside have their nails naturally worn down to a healthy length and may never need you to clip their nails. The amount of wear depends on how active the dog is, and how much his feet are exposed to rough surfaces like gravel & asphalt. Old, sick, or inactive dogs who don't run on hard surfaces need to have their nails cut every 2 weeks.

Clipping the Nails is Required for Health!

It's not just a matter of looking good. If you let your dog's nails get too long, the following health problems can result:

Long nails cause abnormal stresses on the feet. The weight of the animals body is shifted> onto the back of the feet. This alters the alignment of the weight bearing structures, which causes soreness & even arthritis.
If the nails are allowed to remain long, the "quicks" (the part of the nail that has blood vessels & nerves in it) will get longer. This makes it more difficult to trim the nails back to their proper length without causing bleeding.
Long nails tend to snag in carpets, blankets, etc.. The dewclaws ( thumb nails ) are especially likely to do this (in dogs who didn't have their dewclaws removed by the breeder soon after birth). They may also overgrow into the skin.

When Do the Nails Need Clipping?

Nails need trimming when there's "significant growth" beyond the quick. In Brittany Spaniels, this is easy to see because you can see through their nails. Other breeds that have black nails require more experience and/or guesswork.

If you hear the nails clicking when the dog walks on hard surfaces, it's also a clue that the nails are too long.

Start Young

Make practice nail trims part of grooming as soon as you get your puppy/dog to avoid problems later. To start, you should go through the motions of clipping the nails once a week. (There may only be enough nail to trim every 2nd or 3rd week, but it's the early training that counts now.)

The first time you clip your puppy's nails, he probably won't like it. He might try to escape, or might try to make you stop by crying & looking very sad. But don't give your dog the choice. Nail clipping is part of healthy care. Use a firm voice, physical restraint & corrections if necessary to get the job done. And give a reward at the end, for good behavior.

Once you clip your dog's nails a few times, he'll realize it doesn't really hurt. He should get used to it, and relax.

How to Clip the Nails

You may find it easiest to put your dog up on a table (or counter with a slippery surface, or even in the bathtub). Hold your dog into your body firmly. Pass your arm nearest the dog's head under the neck, then lock the head firmly in the crutch of your elbow. Lean over his body to keep him from jumping up. Use the other hand to hold the forearms & prevent the dog from reaching up towards its head with the front paws. If you're not sure how to hold your dog during nail clipping, ask your veterinarian to show you how.

In Brittanys, you should look for the quick & trim to within 2 mm of it.

In breeds with black nails, the dog may have 1 or 2 clear ones, that you can use as a guide. The shape of the nails can also help. Usually the underside is straight towards the base, then forms a hook towards the tip. The nail should be cut leaving a small amount of hook behind. In some dogs, all nails are black & the lower edge of the nail has a continuous curve & no hook. For these dogs, experience is the only way to determine which length to trim to.

Be Prepared for Accidental Bleeding

If you accidentally cut a nail too short, the quick can start bleeding. You should be prepared to handle this problem, before you start clipping your dog's nails. It isn't difficult to handle, when you know a few "First Aid" rules.

Restrain the dog & hold his bleeding foot. Use a Kleenex to apply direct pressure right on the nail tip. It should stop bleeding in 2-3 minutes. If you have "Kwik Stop" powder (available from veterinarians), dab off excess blood & apply some of the powder directly to the nail tip. The Kwik Stop usually stops bleeding immediately. If you don't have any Kwik Stop, you could use a small amount of flour or cornstarch instead.

You are bound to cut into the quick, from time to time, if you are clipping your dog's nails to a healthy length. When you cut into the quick, the dog feels a pinch and bleeds a little. But (except for dogs with a rare bleeding disorder), the amount of blood loss is so small it isn't a serious health problem. He certainly won't bleed to death. And infection of the exposed quick is extremely rare. Don't let this small mistake stop you from clipping his nails in the future.

REMOVING TEAR STAINS

If your dog has wet tearing stains that are hard to remove, you can buy an effective stain remover e.g. "Diamond Eye" from Doghouse Pet Food Mart. It works much better than a wet tissue/cloth, but you must avoid getting it in your dog's eyes or it will really sting.

PROFESSIONAL GROOMING FOR YOUR BRITTANY

Even Brittanys who are entered in dog shows have minimal need for professional grooming. We send our adults for a professional grooming at least once a year, in spring/early summer, mainly so our dogs are comfortable in the heat. Short hair is easier to keep clean and free of tangles. It looks nicer, is easier to brush, & the skin tends to be healthier when it's well ventilated.

Many grooming books are available that describe how to clip your own dog's coat. If you are doing the clipping yourself, do it before you bathe the dog. As the bare minimum, you'll want to clip the hair away from the anal area, & from the face near the eyes. Excess hairs in between the toes should also be clipped (or this area tends to accumulate uncomfortable chunks of ice in winter.)

If you choose to have your Brittany professionally groomed, look for an experienced groomer who specializes in the Brittany breed cut (& may even have won grooming awards), and who you trust to handle your dog gently. We expect to pay about $60-75 per dog (if mats are present, grooming would take longer & cost more). We usually like to have our dog's anal glands emptied (we don't do that at home), coat on the neck from the ears down to the chest cut short (so the collar doesn't pull on it), the tail trimmed close to the skin & feathering on the legs cut shorter (lessening mats).